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Annapurna: The First Conquest Of An 8,000-Meter Peak
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Review
"Outdoor Classic" Winner of the 2010 National Outdoor Book Awards “The most influential mountaineering book of all time.â€â€•National Geographic Adventure “Those who have never seen the Himalayas, those who never care to risk an assault, will know when they finish this book that they have been a companion of greatness.â€â€•New York Times Book Review “Before Everest, there was Annapurna. Frenchman Herzog led the first summitting of an 8,000-meter peak, dictating his story because he had lost all his fingers to frostbite.â€â€•Sports Illustrated“While the ascent is thrilling enough, the harrowing descent . . . truly boggles the mind.â€â€•The Week
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From the Back Cover
One of Sports Illustrated’s top 100 sports books of all time In 1950, when no mountain taller than 8,000 meters had ever been climbed, Maurice Herzog led an expedition of French climbers to the summit of an 8,075-meter (26,493-foot) Himalayan peak called Annapurna. The route up Annapurna had never been charted, and Herzog and his team had to locate the mountain using crude maps, pick out a possible line of ascent, and go for the summit. Annapurna is the unforgettable account of this heroic climb and its harrowing aftermath, including a nightmare descent while suffering from frostbite and snow blindness. Herzog’s masterful narrative is one of the great mountain-adventure stories of all time. This new edition—which commemorates the sixtieth anniversary of the Annapurna ascent on June 3, 1950—features a new foreword by Conrad Anker.
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Product details
Paperback: 256 pages
Publisher: Lyons Press; 2nd ed. edition (May 18, 2010)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1599218933
ISBN-13: 978-1599218939
Product Dimensions:
5.8 x 0.5 x 8.8 inches
Shipping Weight: 9.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.4 out of 5 stars
48 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#93,670 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
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#11
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48 customer reviews4.4 out of 5 stars4.4 out of 5 stars
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mountain climbing
maurice herzog
courage and determination
amazing story
reading this book
annapurna
mountaineering
climb
team
classic
climbers
epic
equipment
frostbite
leadership
mountains
pages
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Top ReviewsMost recentTop Reviews
There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.AgnesM4.0 out of 5 starsexciting but dated
November 1, 2016Format: PaperbackVerified PurchaseVery well written, lots of adventure. I have had to keep in mind that it was written more than 50 years ago, because some of the cultural aspects are disturbing to someone from 2016--the native people are definitely 2nd class and taken advantage of, but that is the reality of history. There is nothing about interpersonal conflicts within the group, but lots of battling the elements, and rather nasty frostbite operations.
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Thomas Erickson5.0 out of 5 starsEpic Adventure Frech expedition climb first 8000M peak. trouble, dangerous,frostbite amputations
March 7, 2013Format: PaperbackVerified PurchaseI love true adventure stories. Annapurna is a true adventure story of a French 1950 mountain climbing expedition. Two of their members are the first to reach the summit of a 8000M peak. Unheard of, many thought it could not be done. Annapurna is the epic book that influenced ED Vestures when he was a boy toward his mountain climbing greatness ( climbed all 13 8000M peaks with no supplemental oxygen...all his books 5 star see my reviews).Annapurna is 278 pages of great adventure and lots of action. No boring parts. I read it in 3 days.Here's a tidbit of the book to wet your appetite.A group of some of the greatest mountain climbers is assembled with a great doctor/surgeon Oudot, and support people for the expedition. Local loyal helpers/guides called Sherpas and Coolies to help carry the heavy loads are hired. The leaders Sahibs have as their expedition leader Maurice Herzog. Herzog is seen as brave but sensibly cautious and uses lots of scouting of different routes. A higher mountain was originally thought OK to climb but it is found too dangerous at this time. Scouting more through glaciers around impassable ridges , a hidden valley a route to Annapurna is found. Already they are experiencing bad weather and are in a race with time as Monsoon rains are coming soon. Some routes are found to be no good. Lots of dangers, crevasses, and avalanches. Five ascending camps are set up. The expedition is rapidly breaking down due to health problems.Herzog and Louise Lachenal make it to the top. All expedition members helped and team work was great. A lot of unselfish people. However Herzog loses his gloves and develops frostbite of the fingers and toes. Lachenal has frostbite of the toes and heal. Some of the others have snow blindness and injuries. The expedition physically is a mess They must hurry to a lower camp for the doctor Oudot to try to save them. Gangrene has set in. Toes and fingers must be amputated.There is a great chapter of the expedition's passage from Nepal to India and meeting the Maharajah in his palace.I won't say too much more and ruin the book for you.Anyone loving true adventure stories and human endurance against incredible obstacles will love this book. This book was the one that many great climbers got their inspiration from. 5 stars and proudly added to our family library.
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Steve Hallsey5.0 out of 5 starsTerrific
October 12, 2016Format: PaperbackVerified PurchaseI purchased this book after summiting Mt. Rainier with Ed Viesturs. Ed told me, during our climb, this was the book that inspired him to dedicate his life to mountaineering and becoming the first American to summit all 14 of the 8,000K summits in the world without supplemental oxygen. Being a novice mountaineer myself, I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book. I found the book to be well written and extremely thoughtful. Today, when most mountaineering books are written as "tell-all" accounts of an expedition, I found this book to be refreshing because it was more about the experience of conquering the mountain than it was about airing dirty laundry about the participants. This particular climb still amazes me, because this team of explorers summited Annapurna (an extremely difficult and demanding mountain) on their first attempt. This book is about courage, determination, perseverance and dedication. This is a must read if you are the least bit interested in mountaineering.
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A. Frost5.0 out of 5 starsWhere is Annapurna??
July 10, 2016Format: PaperbackVerified PurchaseA marvelous window into early Himalayan climbing. One would laugh at the primitive equipment, the false maps, and the disappearing mountains if the stakes hadn't been so high (life or death). Eventually the French team finds Annapurna, but the weather threatens to end the attempt. A thrilling account.
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KYL5.0 out of 5 starsUnselfish courage
February 15, 2015Format: PaperbackVerified PurchaseA classic review by a humble man, not focused on his own superlative abilities but on the unselfish tenacity of both him and his equally qualified teammates, the key word being teammates. Without fanfare he relates a most amazing story of truly dedicated, tough mountaineers. This is not for the reader that leans toward soap opera but for one that values looking into lives that displayed unadorned courage.
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Amazon Customer5.0 out of 5 starsGreat Book!
July 21, 2018Format: PaperbackVerified PurchaseGreat book - it's hard to put down once you start it. The fact that these guys were climbing without all the modern day equipment is extremely impressive!
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MReyes5.0 out of 5 starsFantastic
November 22, 2018Format: PaperbackVerified PurchaseFantastic
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Chrissy R.3.0 out of 5 starsMeh
April 7, 2018Format: Kindle EditionVerified PurchaseThought it was ok - Into Thin Air was a lot better.
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ue_csm.ue.exec(function(g,e){if(e.ue_err){var f="";e.ue_err.errorHandlers||(e.ue_err.errorHandlers=[]);e.ue_err.errorHandlers.push({name:"fctx",handler:function(a){if(!a.logLevel||"FATAL"===a.logLevel)if(f=g.getElementsByTagName("html")[0].innerHTML){var b=f.indexOf("var ue_t0=ue_t0||+new Date();");if(-1!=b){var b=f.substr(0,b).split(String.fromCharCode(10)),d=Math.max(b.length-5-1,0),b=b.slice(d,b.length-1);a.fcsmln=b.length+1;a.cinfo=a.cinfo||{};for(var c=0;c f.split(String.fromCharCode(10));a.cinfo=a.cinfo||{};if(!(a.f||void 0===a.l||a.l in a.cinfo))for(c=+a.l-1,d=Math.max(c-2,0),c=Math.min(c+2,b.length-1);d<=c;d++)a.cinfo[d+1+""]=b[d]}})},"fatals-context")(document,window); Product details Paperback: 256 pages Publisher: Lyons Press; 2nd ed. edition (May 18, 2010) Language: English ISBN-10: 1599218933 ISBN-13: 978-1599218939 Product Dimensions: 5.8 x 0.5 x 8.8 inches Shipping Weight: 9.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies) Average Customer Review: 4.4 out of 5 stars 48 customer reviews Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #93,670 in Books (See Top 100 in Books) Very well written, lots of adventure. I have had to keep in mind that it was written more than 50 years ago, because some of the cultural aspects are disturbing to someone from 2016--the native people are definitely 2nd class and taken advantage of, but that is the reality of history. There is nothing about interpersonal conflicts within the group, but lots of battling the elements, and rather nasty frostbite operations. I love true adventure stories. Annapurna is a true adventure story of a French 1950 mountain climbing expedition. Two of their members are the first to reach the summit of a 8000M peak. Unheard of, many thought it could not be done. Annapurna is the epic book that influenced ED Vestures when he was a boy toward his mountain climbing greatness ( climbed all 13 8000M peaks with no supplemental oxygen...all his books 5 star see my reviews).Annapurna is 278 pages of great adventure and lots of action. No boring parts. I read it in 3 days.Here's a tidbit of the book to wet your appetite.A group of some of the greatest mountain climbers is assembled with a great doctor/surgeon Oudot, and support people for the expedition. Local loyal helpers/guides called Sherpas and Coolies to help carry the heavy loads are hired. The leaders Sahibs have as their expedition leader Maurice Herzog. Herzog is seen as brave but sensibly cautious and uses lots of scouting of different routes. A higher mountain was originally thought OK to climb but it is found too dangerous at this time. Scouting more through glaciers around impassable ridges , a hidden valley a route to Annapurna is found. Already they are experiencing bad weather and are in a race with time as Monsoon rains are coming soon. Some routes are found to be no good. Lots of dangers, crevasses, and avalanches. Five ascending camps are set up. The expedition is rapidly breaking down due to health problems.Herzog and Louise Lachenal make it to the top. All expedition members helped and team work was great. A lot of unselfish people. However Herzog loses his gloves and develops frostbite of the fingers and toes. Lachenal has frostbite of the toes and heal. Some of the others have snow blindness and injuries. The expedition physically is a mess They must hurry to a lower camp for the doctor Oudot to try to save them. Gangrene has set in. Toes and fingers must be amputated.There is a great chapter of the expedition's passage from Nepal to India and meeting the Maharajah in his palace.I won't say too much more and ruin the book for you.Anyone loving true adventure stories and human endurance against incredible obstacles will love this book. This book was the one that many great climbers got their inspiration from. 5 stars and proudly added to our family library. I purchased this book after summiting Mt. Rainier with Ed Viesturs. Ed told me, during our climb, this was the book that inspired him to dedicate his life to mountaineering and becoming the first American to summit all 14 of the 8,000K summits in the world without supplemental oxygen. Being a novice mountaineer myself, I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book. I found the book to be well written and extremely thoughtful. Today, when most mountaineering books are written as "tell-all" accounts of an expedition, I found this book to be refreshing because it was more about the experience of conquering the mountain than it was about airing dirty laundry about the participants. This particular climb still amazes me, because this team of explorers summited Annapurna (an extremely difficult and demanding mountain) on their first attempt. This book is about courage, determination, perseverance and dedication. This is a must read if you are the least bit interested in mountaineering. A marvelous window into early Himalayan climbing. One would laugh at the primitive equipment, the false maps, and the disappearing mountains if the stakes hadn't been so high (life or death). Eventually the French team finds Annapurna, but the weather threatens to end the attempt. A thrilling account. A classic review by a humble man, not focused on his own superlative abilities but on the unselfish tenacity of both him and his equally qualified teammates, the key word being teammates. Without fanfare he relates a most amazing story of truly dedicated, tough mountaineers. This is not for the reader that leans toward soap opera but for one that values looking into lives that displayed unadorned courage. Great book - it's hard to put down once you start it. The fact that these guys were climbing without all the modern day equipment is extremely impressive! Fantastic Thought it was ok - Into Thin Air was a lot better. Annapurna: The First Conquest Of An 8,000-Meter Peak PDF
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